Assam is one of the seven northeastern states of India. Like all her sisters, this land is also famous for its abundance of natural resources. Mother nature touches the lives of the people of the state. A visual treat of such inspiration of nature which you can see in the designs of traditional Assamese jewellery.
Flora, fauna, traditional musical instruments, etc are intricate parts of the designs. They are so beautiful and never really go out of fashion. They are evergreen. Each piece has a name that describes and indicates the shape and decorative work done on it. Many of the designs are exclusive to this state only.
From wild habitats and ancient temples to jewellery styles inspired by nature, Assam has it all. Assam jewellery is crafted with hands by the skilled artisans and workers of Assam. Here’s everything you need to know about the traditional jewellery of Assam.
Assamese Jewellery
Many scholars believe that the word ‘Assam’ is coming from the Sanskrit word Asoma. This means unparallel growth. The majority of the academic circles believe that the term has come from the original name of the Ahoms kings. They ruled Assam for about six hundred years.
It was during the Ahom dynasty, Gold-washing along with the Manufacturing of Gold Ornaments flourished in Assam. Even though miners found gold dust abundantly in the sands of different rivers of the state, they took the major quantities from the river Subansiri (one of the major tributaries of the Brahmaputra).v
It was during the rule of the Ahom kings that the gold-washing on the banks of the Subansiri became the major profession in Assam. Ever since then, Assam has been famous for its traditional Gold jewellery.
In olden times, the different metals and materials used for the making of ornaments were gold, silver, copper, brass, bronze, amber, rhinoceros horns, and ivory. Traditional Assamese jewelry designs are simple, but artisans also use gemstones such as ruby, pearls, and diamonds. The most popular pattern in Assam Jewelry involves using black, green, and red enamel on gold jewelry.
Traditional Assamese Jewellery
Assamese artisans make most of the traditional Assamese jewellery with hands. Inspired by nature, most of the styles include motifs of birds, animals, and musical instruments such as dhol, drum, pepa, etc.
Designed and crafted by artisans, Assam jewellery features exquisite craftsmanship.
Dug-Dugi:
An ancient piece of Assamese jewellery, Dug-Dugi is an ornament for a woman’s neck. With its name still being a mystery, Dug-Dugi is a heart-shaped pendant. This ancient jewellery comprising of heart-shaped neck locket, ring, and earrings might be great to look at but the name is still a mystery today.
Kerumuni:
Crafted in a round shape, Kerumuni has a hollow pendant called “Keru”. The strands of this necklace consist of Pearls or Moti. Initially, designers used this type of design only in earrings, but as trends have evolved, they are now using it in pendants as well.
This exotic ear ornament, made in gold, was largely popular among the locals. Previously the design was only used in earpieces but it is now used in pendants too.
Thuriya:
Aged women of Assam adorn these traditional Assamese earrings. The traditional Thuriya has a very unique shape. It consists of a front side that looks like a flower, a thin middle portion, and a wider bottom portion.
Its design helps the earrings to stay intact in the ears. Older Assamese women largely wear these gold earrings, notable for a special studded gemstone.
Gam-kharu:
This is a chunky bracelet/bangle made of silver or gold. Adorned by Assamese women, Gam-Kharu is one of the most beautiful jewels of Assam. It can be opened with a golden knot attached to it and therefore, it can fit anyone.
Males only previously wore broad bracelets with clasps known as Gam-Kharus, but now females very popularly wear them. The gold gamkharu has a lovely floral pattern inscribed on it. This Assam Jewelry is worn on occasions such as marriages and Bihu. In previous times, men used to wear silver gamkharu.
Loka-paro: Bridal Assamese jewellery
“Paro” means pigeons!
In Loka Paro, the pendant is embellishing with identical pigeons. Craftspeople position them one after another and attach them to a string containing gold beads. They adorn the pigeons embossing on the Loka Paro necklace with a wide variety of gemstones, such as Rubies, Emeralds, Amethyst, Rose Quartz, etc.
It has two pigeons placed back to back in gold and rubies. It was originally worn by high-profile dignitaries of the royal Ahom dynasty. You can buy such designs of Assam jewellery online.
An ornament without which no quintessential Assamese bride’s look is complete – loka paro – consists of a pendant and a pair of earrings embellished with identical pigeons (‘paro’ means pigeon). These are made of gold and rubies and were originally worn by dignitaries of the Ahom dynasty. When you closely look at loka paro, you’ll notice it is going through enameling (made by fusing a thin layer of glass with gold).
Jonbiri: Assamese jewellery on Festivals
In Assamese, Jon means the Moon and Biri is the surrounding designs of Jonbiri. This is an eye-catching accessory that is adorning the beautiful women of Assam.
Its design is inspired by musical instruments, nature, and household goods of Assam. which is a crescent moon-shaped pendant and earring with gold and rubies in the front and enamel coating behind.
Dholbiri/Motabiri:
Inspired by Dhol (a musical instrument), the traditional Dholbiri comes in a dhol shape. It is considered one of the most popular decorative ornaments for Assamese women.
Gal-pata/Gala-pata/ Gol-pata:
Gal means neck and pata is the flat design of Gal-pata. Adorned by the beautiful women of Assam, Gal-pata is a traditional choker necklace made of Gold. It is embellished with intricate floral designs. This Assamese jewellery design is made of gold. Stuck around the neck, it has different floral designs on it.
Japi:
Japi is a traditional conical hat that inspires a popular design element for neck and earpieces.
Pepa:
It is a hornpipe musical instrument that is useful in traditional music in Assam. Making of the Pepa happenss with the horn of a buffalo. This design of a hornpipe instrument is also useful to make jewellery.
Muthi kharu: Assamese gold jewellery
A solid and sturdy gold bracelet made purely of gold, muthi kharu is also an integral ornament in an Assamese bride’s jewellery box. Owing to its sturdy make, muthi kharu gives the look and feel of a cuff bangle. Apart from weddings, you will see women of Assam wearing muthi kharus at festivals like Bihu and Durga Puja.
Making of Traditional Jewellery of Assam
A group of Artisans “Sonari”, crafts the Traditional Assamese jewellery. Most of the jewellery styles contain silver or lac as their base metal and Gold foil as their coating.
However, as the trends are evolving, people have started to prefer Gold base over silver or lac base. As a result of which, Assamese jewellery now comes in 3 types of metal variations.
- Gold is useful in making the frame, and Silver or Lac metal is usefulfor the filling. The styles with Gold as their base are known as “Kecha Sonar Gahana” or Pat Sonar Gahana.
- Silver or Lac is useful to make the frame, and the filling is with Gold foils.
- The frame is made with Silver, and the filling is also done with Silver metal, and then the entire piece is coated with gold metal.
- Once the frame is ready, the jewellery piece is then adorned with Kundan and Meena stones. Originally, artisans used to embellish the piece with precious gemstones such as Rubies, Emeralds, and Garnets but due to the high cost, the demand for such pieces decreased. However, there are a few Artisans who make jewellery encrusted with precious gemstones.
- You can buy such styles of Assam jewellery online or at the Ranthali village of Assam.
This traditional art is attracting more youth in the state to take up jewelry-making as a profitable profession which is an encouraging sign for the economy of the state. Hope that the exquisite and unique jewelry of Assam gains popularity outside the state too and occupies a place of pride in its possessor.
Are you looking for a career opportunity in Assam?. Many Pharma and Bio tech companies are opening up offices in this state.
Summary
Assamese jewellery, embodying elegance and cultural richness, showcases designs that resonate deeply with tradition and modern aesthetics. From the intricate Japi to the exquisite Muga, each piece tells a story of craftsmanship and heritage, making them not just accessories but treasures of Assam’s artistic legacy.
