Jewelry Designs

All you wanted to know about Polki Jewellery

Vandana Matta

Vandana Matta

November 11, 2022

Polki is an uncut and unpolished diamond, used in its natural form without any physical or chemical treatment. Often retained in their original rough version, they have a non-faceted polished surface, and are generally cut to follow the original structure of the stone.

What is meant by Polki jewellery?

Polki jewellery is made using gold foil, which has intricate designs at the back. The uncut diamonds are then secured in these gold foils. Polki jewellery is therefore timeless and a classic style of Indian jewellery, making it a good investment that is often passed down as heirlooms within families.

Polki is one of the oldest styles of jewellery designs. Although it came to India along with the Mughals, it has now become very much a part of the Indian culture. Polki jewellery is as popular in the India as its predecessor, Kundan jewellery, which has Rajasthani origins.

So, what makes Polki jewellery so special and so strikingly beautiful? Well, the fact that they are made from diamonds. And that they are hand-crafted by some of the finest and most skilled craftsmanship. Yes, the stones used in Polki, also known as the Polki stones, are in fact, uncut, unfinished diamonds directly obtained from mining.

These diamonds are used in their most natural form, which imparts class and attractiveness to Polki. The essence of Polki is the beautiful blend of diamonds with breathtaking designs and patterns. 

Classic Polki Necklace Set | House of Indya

Making of Polki Jewellery 

As we mentioned before, all Polki jewellery sets have uncut diamonds as one of the core elements. These Polki stones are set in gold jewellery, using lac and fine pure gold foils. The gold foil essentially holds the Polki jewellery stones together and makes them stay in their position.

Sometimes, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and other gemstones are also laced between the uncut diamond stones in Polki jewellery designs. The fact that Polki stones look good with most gemstones and birthstones makes them quite versatile and gives them a broader appeal.

Value of Polki Jewellery 

Polki jewellery is quite expensive. Mainly, because of the elaborate use of diamonds, and other precious stones, the fact that they use gold as the base and the designs require extremely skilled people. They are priced depending on various factors such as carat, clarity, cut, and color. Due to these reasons, Polki jewellery is usually more expensive than Kundan jewellery.

Diamond Polki is a masterful work of art. It’s loveliness personified. Not many know that Polki jewellery is created with unfinished natural diamonds. To be precise, Polki is essentially an uncut diamond that is mined from the earth naturally. The diamonds used to craft unique Polki jewellery ‘art’ pieces are also not enhanced in any way.

Since Polki is basically raw and relatively untouched diamonds, its demand is quite high, especially amongst prospective brides. Polki sets are also priced comparatively high.

Decoding the Art of Uncut Polki Diamonds - Only Natural Diamonds

What are the different kinds of Polki settings?

There are different techniques like jadau, bedroom, and takkar—each one requires a different skill set and provides distinct end results too. Jadau, the Hindi word for embedding, refers to jewellery where Polki diamonds are placed on a silver or gold foil, lending them a brilliant shine when they reflect light. The badroom setting is a tulle pattern where Polkis are packed with 24K gold following a jaali pattern. The takkar Polki setting involves arranging embedded Polkis edge to edge with one another, without the use of any metal packing.

What is Polki Diamond Jewellery?

Everything to Know About Polki Jewelry |

Polki diamonds are one of the oldest forms of cut diamonds. They originated in India long before Western diamond-cutting methods were introduced here. Polki diamonds thus, retain their original rough form and have an un-faceted, shiny surface.

Which state is famous for Polki jewellery?

Today, Bikaner in the Indian state of Rajasthan is the most revered hub for Polki must-haves.

What is Polki’s design?

Polkis are natural diamonds in their pure and raw form. Polki is basically created with unfinished diamonds in their natural form. If these unfinished diamonds are polished and chemically treated they look like shiny diamonds.

Is Polki more expensive than gold?

Hence, Polki shines brighter and is more expensive.  Polki is uncut diamonds in their raw, pure form. It is made by placing uncut diamonds in gold jewellery using gold foils and lac.

Polki and Different jewellery pieces 

polki jewelry

Whether, you wear them as necklaces, bangles, or maang-tikas, Polki designs will make you look like a princess on any occasion. So, if our wedding is around the corner and we’re thinking about what type of jewellery might look most elegant with our bridal lehenga, we put our money on Polki.

Very few jewellery styles look as royal and as rich as diamond and gold Polki jewellery does and it goes superbly well with all the different styles of traditional wear. Whether we’re planning to wear a saree for our south Indian wedding, a lehenga for North Indian style baraat, or a suit for a Punjabi Gurudwara wedding; a gorgeous Polki set can make us sizzle in any outfit so one looks like the perfect bride!

If we want to do something different other than the Polki necklace and earpieces, we know just what we need, a mang-tikka. We honestly think a maang-tikka can take our traditional look to a completely new level. So, ditch the necklaces and earrings and let our maang-tikka have all the attention has to itself, for a change. The amazing Polki designs of bangles, bracelets, and kadas could also be added to complete our traditional look.


What is Jadau Polki?

Most people misunderstand Jadau as a type of jewellery, just like Polki or Kundan. But, it’s not. Jadau is, in fact, a technique of jewellery making used to make Polki or Kundan jewellery. Jadau is also called Engraved jewellery making and has been in practice in the regions of Rajasthan and Gujarat, since the Mughal era.

The Polki requires highly skilled craftsmanship as they often involve intricately fine and delicate designs and patterns.

Jadau Polki is a traditional form of jewelry that combines two distinct techniques: Jadau and Polki. It is a highly skilled and intricate art form that originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan, India. Jadau Polki jewelry is renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship, vibrant colors, and timeless elegance.

The Jadau technique involves embedding precious and semi-precious gemstones, such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls, into a base made of gold. Skilled artisans meticulously shape and arrange the gemstones, using a process that includes intricate stone setting, filigree work, and Meenakari (enamel) detailing. The gems are secured in place with a combination of gold foil and lac, giving the jewelry its distinctive appearance.

Polki, on the other hand, refers to the use of uncut diamonds in their natural form. These raw diamonds have a flat base and a faceted top, allowing them to sparkle and reflect light beautifully. Polki diamonds are renowned for their shimmering, vintage charm and are often used as the centerpiece in Jadau Polki jewelry.

Jadau Polki jewelry holds immense cultural significance and is highly valued for its craftsmanship and intricate designs. It is often worn on special occasions, including weddings and festivities, as a symbol of tradition, heritage, and elegance. Jadau Polki pieces are treasured heirlooms, passed down through generations, showcasing the artistry and legacy of Indian jewelry craftsmanship.

What makes Polki jewellery so special?

Jewellery is not just about gold anymore. Customers now also bestow their patronage on Polki and Kundan jewellery to pass on to future generations. Aesthetically pleasing designs highlighting traditional floral and animal motifs are very popular. Since Polki jewellery is made using uncut diamonds in their natural forms, each and every piece exudes an old-world charm. Rubies are an important part of Polki as well, owing to the significance of the color red in Indian society. Though emeralds are the most preferred choice to accentuate designs because of their availability, followed by sapphires. We at Birdhichand also use rose-cut diamonds and pearls to create all-white pieces.

Cultural significance of Polki jewellery for Indian brides

Polki jewellery has a touch of rich heritage coupled with timelessness. Being one of the oldest forms of traditional jewellery, owning a piece of Polki is considered a valuable addition to an Indian woman’s jewellery box. There is a piece of Polki jewellery typical to different cultures. For instance, Rajputi brides prefer stiff Aad necklaces. Chokers layered with long haars or heavy round necklaces are popular choices, and statement earrings such as Kashmiri jhumkas and kanser are perennial favorites with today’s young brides.

Polki Jewelry Trends

Polki Choker Necklace


Timelessness is valued more than trends when it comes to Polki jewelry. Think classic investments that can become part of the bride’s legacy; heirlooms she can eventually pass down.

Colorful Designs

Uncut diamonds are typically enhanced with multi-hued enamel or meenakari work. They are also juxtaposed with south sea pearls and gemstones for a punch of color. While rubies and emeralds were the go-to in the past, pastel-hued stones such as Russian emeralds, morganites, amethysts, and even polished diamonds have become modern favorites.


Traditionally, bridal jewelry leaned towards a maximalist sensibility. However, another mindset change has been to add practicality to the purchases. Modern brides aren’t interested in expensive fine jewelry that will barely see the light of day after their nuptials.

Polki Earrings

Multi-Purpose Pieces

Versatile jewelry is the way forward,” reiterates Shekhawat. “We create detachable and reversible jewelry which can be worn in different ways for various occasions. It’s important that these jewels aren’t simply relegated to a bank vault after the wedding.” So, what are these multi-purpose designs like?.

Sunita Shekhawat Jaipur’s earrings, for instance, can be easily styled in different ways: as drop hangings, as studs, or as more elaborate pieces with an add-on hair accessory called kanauti. “This way, they can be worn with the bridal sari or lehenga, as well as with a gown for a cocktail party.” Another example is a hathphool or hand harness, which can also be worn as a bracelet or choker necklace.

Minimalist Looks

Shekhawat adds that jewelers today lay special focus on keeping Polki jewelry lightweight and easy to move around in. “I also see more brides with a less is more mentality now. Women want to invest in fine jewelry that is minimal but also stands out. They don’t feel the need to put on a showy display.”

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, Polki jewelry is a captivating and cherished form of traditional Indian jewelry. With its unique use of uncut diamonds, it exudes a vintage charm and timeless appeal. Polki jewelry’s natural and raw appearance, along with its faceted top, allows the diamonds to sparkle and shimmer with unmatched beauty. From exquisite necklaces to elegant earrings and statement rings,

Polki jewelry pieces are crafted with utmost skill and artistry. Whether worn on special occasions or as a part of daily adornment, Polki jewelry adds a touch of regal elegance to any ensemble. Its rich history, craftsmanship, and enduring allure make Polki jewelry a true symbol of luxury and heritage.

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